I wished a fond farewell to my bunny and my bikes, and boarded a plane for the East Coast. A lay-over in Denver quickly turned into a panicked sprint for my next gate, when my flight from Oakland was delayed in landing, having been forced into the airplane equivalent of a grid-lock for half an hour. Many thanks to the fabulous folks on Southwest for holding up the next leg of the journey to accommodate the delayed passengers!
Once again, we were up up and away and I was back doing what I love best - burying my nose in a good book. An hour later I had completed The Immortal Life of Henrietta Lacks and was
occupying my mind with the pleasures and curiosities of Sky Mall magazine, proving for the millionth time that if you conceive it, they will try to sell it. An uneventful flight later, and I was in a taxi cab bound for University City. Who knew there were so many sub-cities in Philadelphia? I met up with Miss Wolfe with hugs and happiness at her friend's apartment near campus, where the two had been busy preparing libations for Sunday's festivities (more to come later).
Alex introduced me to her house one block behind the charming and unique Rittenhouse Square. The house is a 3-story carriage house, with original hardwood floors (over 200 years old!), a terrifyingly narrow and steep stair case, and a classic Philadelphia red brick facade. Luckily, she and her housemate were in between roommates at the time, so I had my own room at the front of the house on the second floor. My windows opened onto Manning St, more of a wide alley than street, which meant little car traffic and allowed nothing but the sweet sounds of music playing in the Square to filter into my bed chamber on Sunday morning.
Rittenhouse Square is more than just a meeting of four streets. It is a park, a sculpture garden, a playground, a meeting place, a lunch spot, and so much more. Homes, hotels, shops, and restaurants with fabulous outdoor seating all flank the Square. Every morning, joggers nimbly pick their path across the cobblestone walkways. Every afternoon the lunch crowd occupies each available bench. Every evening, parents bring their children to climb on the statues. And at all hours of the day, dogs and their owners greet one another with wagging tails and smiles. It is a perfect and charming place, and the arrival of fall decorated the green lawns with blankets of yellow leaves.
On Sunday, we discovered quite possibly my favorite piece of Philadelphia - a fabulous little Jewish delicatessen just off Rittenhouse Square. Upon walking in and seeing the mountainous plates of food, and smelling the pickled cabbage and cucumbers, I knew I'd found home. My omelette with potato pancakes was delicious, as was the rugelach I treated myself to afterwards. Also, who can resist a place that gives homemade chocolate chip cookies with the check? If only I lived in Philadelphia, this little deli would be my home away from home. My matzoh ball soup the net day perfectly complemented the challah stuffing (baked with carrots, onions, celery, and raisins). And the smell of the fried kreplach with onions was intoxicating - I could barely hold off eating my treasure until the plane trip home on Tuesday.
However, the deli had to compete with the beauty of running alongside the Schylkill River in the morning. During my stay, Philadelphia was blessed with uncommonly gorgeous weather - sunny skies and day time temperatures around 60 degrees. This was not the frigid Northeast weather I'd anticipated for November! Other joggers on the trail seemed immune to the warm, sunny mornings, and still proceeded to shuffle along in sweatshirts and gloves, whereas I bounded with unbridled joy in my shorts and t-shirt. I fairly flitted along the path, stopping every 1/4 mile or so to read the inscriptions that flanked the many landmarks and statues along the way.
About two miles north from Rittenhouse, one encounters a row of boat houses and the Waterworks. Rushing water spills over the top of a dam, which is truly better appreciated from a view above the river on Lemon Hill. Paths and overlooks were constructed in the early 1800s to allow citizens to enjoy the fresh air and views. I ran further north, past the boat houses before turning around to explore the primary goal of my run - the Philadelphia Art Museum, and home to the "Rocky Steps". From the top of the steps, the entire Ben Franklin Parkway opened up beneath me. It was like an artery, leading directly from the heart to the core of the city. Cars rushed and swirled around a central statue, depicting George Washington standing among natives and wild animals.
Later that day, I explored the historical sights of Independence Hall, Franklin House, and the Second Bank of the United States. This treasure trove of American history lay only two miles from Rittenhouse Square, and was a delightful walk through shops and restaurants. I made a second trip on my last day to visit the National Museum of Jewish American History, of which the exhibits on immigration and Ellis Island were my favorites. On my way home from Old City, I stopped in at the Terminal Reading Market, a cornucopia of farmer's stalls, food stands, and craftsmen's wares. I grabbed a few jars of fruit butters - pumpkin for myself, and apple and strawberry/rhubarb for Brandt. I also treated myself to an ice cream cone from local Philly company, which had been around since 1861 - celebrating 150 years this year! I was tasting a scoop of history right?
All in all, my visit to Philadelphia was wonderful. What more could I ask for than a weekend of"phood", "phriends", and "phun". Thank you to my dear friend Alex for introducing me to this wonderful place, and sharing a piece of her new life with me! I will treasure these memories always.
